займ на карту займы онлайн на карту займы на карту онлайн моментальный займ онлайн займ онлайн на карту микрозайм онлайн на карту кредит онлайн на карту микрозаймы в интернете онлайн займ на карту моментальный займ
Auto News

1286

Whenever you invest in a car, either a brand new one off the lot or a used one from a grandmother off the internet, you have made an investment. And, as with any investment of a significant size, you’ll want to protect that investment.

Whether you find yourself behind the wheel of Peugeot vans or something smaller – a Japanese compact vehicle, perhaps – there are definitely ways to go about protecting the value of your car over the long-haul of your ownership. Let us take a look at a few different ways to mitigate the overall, inevitable depreciation of a vehicle while it is on your watch.

Buy used

Once you drive off the lot of a dealership with a new car, you are losing valueright off the bat. Some estimates place the value depreciation as high as 20%, a percentage that can be minimized by buying used. If you consider the value depreciation of buying a used car versus buying a new car, it is lower because the drive-away value of 20% when it was new is factored into the cost of buying the used vehicle. Now, a stable, annual depreciation of 7%-12% takes place, but that is also part of the price you are paying for the vehicle, depending on how old it is.

A vehicle that is around two to three years old is the ideal time to pick it up; it is still fairly new, but available at a steep discount of 60% to 75% of its brand new sticker price, or possibly even lower. Make sure the model and manufacture year has the key amenities and features you are looking for, and of course that the car is still in good condition and no one is trying to pull the wool over your eyes.

Choose well, and hold on to your cars

If you buy a model that has a high rating for its reliability and fuel economy, chances are that car will retain its value relative to other cars that came out around the same time as it. So, choosing a model that has a high chance of retaining its value is a great way to minimize the chance of depreciation.

Additionally, if you hold onto a vehicle like this for a while, you can make sure that it is well-maintained (better than other owners of the same make, for instance), thus appreciating its value relative to that of other cars that may have passed through multiple owner’s hands. When it comes time to sell it, yours will appear more appealing just because it has been in somebody’s hands for so long. If you do happen to buy new, hold onto it until it drops dead to ensure you get the most value out of it. Trading in after two years is one of the worst value trades you can make.

Maintain well

This may seem like common sense, but regular tune-ups are essential for keeping the vehicle in good condition and maintaining the value of the car as much as possible. This will also keep you safer, which is a good enough reason in itself to schedule regular tune-ups. Maintaining the value of your vehicle by implementing effective strategies to prohibit its depreciation will ensure that you get the most value out of your purchase.

Source Image: Google

1677

If you have yet to make the move of bringing company cars into your business, then, perhaps, this guide is for you. There are plenty of advantages of starting up a fleet of vehicles that can be worth investigating – so we thought we would go through them one by one. It doesn’t matter whether you are a big company looking to build a fleet, or a small business wanting to provide select workers with a vehicle. All businesses could benefit – and here’s why.

Here’s the thing about employees: they like to feel valued. To put it simple, people like getting company cars. It makes them feel like they are appreciated and boosts their morale, in more ways than one. For example, it gives them the opportunity to own a vehicle that they otherwise could not afford. It also gives their self-worth a boost in the right direction. Also, it can help you reduce your tax bill. If you have employees paying into a car scheme, then it comes out of their wages before any deductions are made. That means fewer costs for you.

Easy to start your own fleet

It’s never been simpler to start forming your own fleet of cars for your company. There are two ways you can begin buying on company cars, and both tend to give you a better deal than you would get by purchasing privately. Firstly you could choose a manufacturer or and set up some deal for your cars. Secondly, you could find a dealer. Again, you might find better prices here, either as a one-off purchase, lease or on a finance option. Take a look at http://listers.co.uk/Leasing/Offers/Toyota for a good example. You’ll see that there are plenty of choices for businesses – and those options should get cheaper the more cars you buy.

Advertising, for free

If you are going to buy in company cars for your staff anyway, then you could also think about using them for publicity – at no extra cost to yourself. A little brand recognition in your local area is going to be good for your business, and it will help to build up your identity. You could have a straight up logo painted onto all of your cars or think about doing something a little wackier. Take drinks company Innocent, for example. They are one of many businesses that have company vehicles astroturfed to show off their natural credentials.

Show off your commitment to the environment

You don’t have to cover your cars with plastic grass to show you are an eco-conscious company, however. In fact, you could just buy or loan in a fleet of hybrid or electric cars and make a big noise about it in the local press. This will raise the bar in boosting the public perception of you business – not to mention being cheaper to run thanks to fewer fuel costs. Don’t forget that many people are beginning to be a lot more choosy about the companies that they buy from these days. Those green values could well help you prise business away from the competition – and keep it.

As you can see, there are plenty of reasons why company cars could be right for your business – are you tempted? Let us know your thoughts in the comments section below.

1624

Towing a trailer can be hazardous to your health –If you don’t know what you are doing. In 2014, according to the Department of Transportation, over 68 thousand American motorists were involved in towing-related accidents. For many of those involved in this statistic, proper safety practices and loading techniques are probably not used. So you can avoid any issues when towing, let’s look at some of the basics.

The first step before towing anything is to make sure that both your vehicle and trailer are properly load-rated. The load rating refers to the carrying capacity of the hitch and tow vehicle. The essential components are the hitch on the trailer and the receiver on the tow vehicle. It is advised that the minimum hitch/receiver rating be a Class III (6000 lbs tow weight) regardless what you are towing. If you towing heavier loads it is advised that you talk to an automotive professional, perhaps at your local dealership, to get the best advice about equipment.

After you have decided on what level of hitch and receiver you need, you can look into the type of trailer you need. As you probably know, there is a trailer built for every need that you can imagine. It is suggested that you talk to someone well versed in this sort of thing for advice also. You can find this at any trailer sales outlet or rental company.

If you are towing anything large, you will likely deal with swaying at some point – particularly if it is windy. This can quickly lead to an accident. If it occurs to you, the best corrective action is to gently back off the gas and allow the vehicle slow down. The swaying will quickly dampen and eventually stop. Note: You can minimize the risk of swaying by making sure that the load on the trailer is properly centered over the axles and centered.

As with most tasks, preparation before you hit the road is the key to safe and successful trailering and the best way to avoid becoming one of the 68,000 plus motorists involved in trailering accidents each year. Good Luck!

Thanks to Bob Pulte Chevrolet

1661

You probably know that “Redlining” an engine isn’t a good thing. It usually means you have jammed your foot on the gas pedal far enough that the engine is spinning into the “red zone” on the tach. When something is operating in any red zone, it’s usually a bad thing. But what happens when an automotive engine redlines, and can you really damage your engine if it occurs?

Engineers define “the redline” as the maximum speed that an internal combustion engine can operate at without causing damage to itself. The redline of an engine depends on factors such as the mass of the engine parts, composition of the parts (i.e. what type of metal) and the interrelated balance of all components.

So what happens when an engine goes into the red zone? The rate of change in piston velocity is the critical issue. This is directly proportional to the G-forces experienced by the piston-connecting rod assembly as it slams up and down. As long as the G-forces acting on the piston-connecting rod assembly is less than the strength of the materials they are made of, the engine can safely rev without breaking anything.

Engine redlines can vary a great deal. Big engines, such as in trains and ships can redline at just a few hundred RPM. Smaller, usually high-performance, engines such as motorcycles and sports cars normally have much higher redlines. The Honda CBR250 has a redline of about 19,000 rpm. Gasoline automobile engines typically will redline at around 5500 to 7500 rpm. By contrast, some older overhead valve engines had redlines as low as 4800 rpm. By the way, the main reason OHV engines have lower redlines is valve float. At high speeds, the valve spring simply cannot keep the tappet or roller on the camshaft. This is why overhead cam engines are popular today –no valve float.

The computer systems (CPUs) that control most modern cars prevent engines from straying too far into the redline by cutting fuel flow to the engine or by disabling the ignition system. This circuitry is known as a “rev limiting” and is usually set to an RPM value at the determined redline or a several hundred RPM above.

However, even with an electronic protection system, a car is not prevented from redlining when a driver “misses a shift”. If a driver accidentally selects a lower gear when trying to shift up or selects a lower gear than intended while shifting down, the engine will be forced to rapidly rev-up to match the speed of the drivetrain. This can easily redline an engine. Fortunately, this is uncommon in normal driving but is a constant issue for race car drivers to be aware of.

Source: McLoughlin Chrysler Jeep in Portland

1748

The 1955 Chevrolet is arguably the most recognizable car ever made. To start with, it has been featured in hundreds of Hollywood films. Want a good example? It was in George Luca’s movie American Graffiti that Harrison Ford made his screen debut driving a black 1955 Chevy. This was the hot rod that challenged John Milner (Paul Lemat) in his yellow 1932 Ford 5 window coupe.

One of the reasons for the remarkable popularity of the 1955 Chevy was that General Motors sold a large number of that model year. It was due to a new body redesign and a wonderful new V8 engine. Let’s consider the body redesign, first. Although Ford had already gone to a “shoe box” body design (no external fenders) in 1949, Chevy was gradually doing the same through the early 1950s. In 1955, Chevy bit the bullet and caught up with Ford by leaping to a true shoebox look. It had smooth straight panels on the sides and hood, wrap-around glass on the windshield, and triangular tail lights that jutted outward. It was a looker.

The next characteristic that was a huge hit was the optional V8 engine. Chevrolet had produced an earlier car with a V8 in 1918 but it remained in production for only a year. The new 265-cubic-inch overhead valve V8 for 1955 was a brand new design and it was a major hit. It was designed to be smaller, lighter, and more powerful than any other V8s in the auto industry at the time.

The 1955 model year was also a year of other firsts for Chevrolet. This included changing from a 6-volt to a 12-volt electrical system and the introduction of many new options like air conditioning, power windows, power seats, power steering and power brakes. Never before had so many options been offered for a car in the low-price field.

The 55’s top trim offering was the Bel-Air, which had more chrome and trim than the 150 or 210 models. The Bel-Air and 210 could be bought with a post between the front and rear passenger windows, or without a post. Today, the non-post version is far more popular with collectors. The Bel-Air was also available in a convertible, with the same shorter roof and longer rear deck as the sport coupe.

Chevrolet retained the same similar body style and chassis for the 1955, 56, and 57 model years. Today, these years are extremely sought after by collectors and enthusiasts, and are often referred to by the given nickname of “tri-fives.” All three years are highly sought after but the 1955 remains the original and most popular of the series.
Source: McLoughlin Chevrolet

1451

If you’re a car jockey, you’ve probably been degreasing engines for years. If you aren’t, here’s a good reason to consider it, at least at trade time; a clean engine will bring you more money. You should definitely degrease a messy engine compartment before you sell a car to a dealer, or via private sale. You will be glad you did because it will bring in more money.

Fortunately, degreasing an engine isn’t that hard to do. There are many engine degreasing sprays on the market today that eliminate the hard work. You can find them at most auto supply stores and hardware stores. Degreasing sprays come in two types: solvent and water-based. Both types work well. If you’re sensitive to solvents, choose a concentrated water-based product. Many professionals prefer solvent-based degreasers, though, because they work a little faster and seem to cut through heavy grease buildup a little better. The downside is their strong solvent smell. If your engine is really a greasy mess, choose either a foam or a gel formula such as Gunk Heavy Duty Gel Degreaser. This type of cleaner hangs onto the grime and penetrates it better.

Here’s how to degrease your engine: Degreasers work best when the oil and grease on an engine is a little soft. So start the engine up and let it run for about 5 minutes. Then hose down the engine with the degreaser. Aim carefully to prevent the overspray from jumping out onto your cars paint. After you have coated everything, let it sit on the engine for 15-20 minutes so all the grease softens up.

Next step is to take a garden hose with a good spray nozzle and wash all off the engine. This will likely make quite a mess so be ready to get rather oily and wet. It is basically imperative that this be done outside. When you are done spraying off the grease, take a good look at the engine and see if you have removed all the accumulated grease. If not, apply another coat of degreaser and repeat. It often takes a couple of iterations to properly degrease an engine well.

By the way, when you are finished degreasing, consider using an engine protectant. Gunk Engine Shine is a popular brand. The engine protectant spray imparts a slight shine to all the under-hood parts and a protective layer of oil to make cleanup even easier next time.

Technical Source: Lebanon Ford

1224

It is widely advanced by automotive historians that Chrysler Corporation developed and sold the first streamlined automobile. The car was called the Airflow and this was during the mid-1930s. History tells us that the Airflow was indeed a revolutionary automobile and almost put Chrysler out of business. Here’s the story behind Chrysler’s ill-fated Airflow.

According to legend, Carl Breer, who was one of Chrysler’s big three executives in the 1930s, saw some military aircraft on local maneuvers and wondered why Chrysler’s cars weren’t so streamlined. He reasoned that a streamlined car would slip through the air easier than the standard boxy designs of the day and, naturally, this would lend itself to higher efficiencies and better economy. He soon communicated these thoughts with Walter Chrysler and with his blessing, a design team was formed to research the concept.

Breer, along with fellow Chrysler engineers Fred Zeder and Owen Skelton, began a series of wind tunnel tests to study which shapes were the most efficient forms. Orville Wright, of the famous Wright brothers, was actually hired as a design consultant. After work that took over 2 years, the finished automotive design was christened the Chrysler Airflow and was scheduled for final development.

Chrysler’s marketing department originally planned that the Airflow would be introduced under Chrysler’s advanced DeSoto brand only. But as the concept began to take shape, Walter Chrysler became increasingly excited about the Airflow design and this lead to the release of Airflows under two other Chrysler brands, Chrysler and Dodge, in addition to the DeSoto line. Basically, Chrysler “bet the farm” on the Airflow concept and it would prove to be a poor decision.

Although initial response with the media and the public was very strong for this efficient car design, it rapidly tapered off. Many journalists and pundits said the cars were, frankly, unattractive. The result was that Chrysler Airflow production, which had totaled 10,839 in 1934 fell precipitously during the next few years. By 1937, the ill-fated vehicle’s final year of production, sales totaled just some 4,602 for the model year.

As a historical side note, it is rumored that Ferdinand Porsche imported an early Airflow coupe into Germany, and using this model for “inspiration”, designed the first Volkswagen Beetle. The similarities between early Volkswagens and the Airflow coupes could be testimony to this hypothesis.

Source: Kernersville Chrysler

1051

You might have a crusty old banger or a sleek and supple sports car, but the outcome of poor driving will remain the same – a crash, a bang and a wallop.

Just picture the scene – you’re snaking over B roads and C roads, your foot mashing the accelerator pedal, and your speedometer veering further to the right than a Nigel Farage and Boris Johnson tag team.

The motorway feels like it’s yours and yours alone. That is, until you slam into a boxy Vauxhall Nova.

Your vehicle skids in a seemingly never-ending series of circles, before being stopped dead when it collides with a crash barrier.

Your engine is smoking. Your spine is disjointed. But you’re alive –not everyone fares quite so well.

According to government statistics, road traffic accidents increased by five per cent to 22,807 in 2014. Out of that 22,807, 1,775 people were killed.

They’re the kind of figures that could make even a dedicated petrolhead ease their foot from the accelerator pedal. Yet nothing will stop some speed freaks in their tracks. Instead, they’ll simply shrug and turn on their windshield wipers when a pedestrian mangles over their bonnet.

Safety measures are in place, however, to counteract our love of speed with at least a little responsibility.

Make YOUR claim

Aside from the obvious criminal charges a reckless driver can face, there’s another avenue altogether to make gas guzzlers shudder.

The world of car accident claims will leave bad drivers out of pocket – but it’s not all about the money.

With the claims process in place, dodgy drivers can be held to account. You could almost argue that making a claim is our civic duty, showing that the law won’t tolerate miscreants driving and causing chaos on the roads.

So what do you have to do to make a claim?

The process

First, pick up the phone. You’ll be asked to detail the events of your accident which, although a painful process, will determine its severity and whether or not your case has a leg to stand on.

After this, it’s time to make like Columbo and gather evidence. CCTV footage, speed camera documentation, previous criminal records, witness testimony, MOT documents – all these and more could give your case a real boost.

Once you’ve got your evidence sorted, the rest of the job will mainly be left to your solicitor.

You’ll have to place a huge amount of trust in your legal representation, but that trust will be more than warranted when you win your case.

Making a claim can be a stressful time, but the rewards at the end of the chase can be well worth it.

So if you’ve had a gnarly encounter with a menacing motorhead, you know exactly what to do.

SOCIAL

4,790FansLike
180FollowersFollow

Popular

5522
Buying a car isn't as easy a task as it once may have been. Instead of merely checking the engine, tires, tax and interior,...